Pearls, the Elegance of a Timeless Jewel
“A woman needs ropes and ropes of pearls,” said designer Coco Chanel, who wore as many as six strands all together. With the famous little black dress, they became a symbol of elegance with Audrey Hepburn, the unforgettable star of the film Breakfast at Tiffany’s. But they still are: as fashion experts point out, from Princess Kate to Generation Z stars like Bella Hadid and Dua Lipa, everyone loves and wears pearls.
How Pearls are Born
Their charm is undoubtedly linked to their characteristics and origin: more or less perfect spheres, in a color that varies from white to shades of yellow and pink, that are born from the sea. Unlike all other precious metals and stones, in fact, the pearl is produced by a living organism, an oyster, beneath the water’s surface.
It forms when a foreign element, which can be a grain of sand or another living organism, enters inside the mollusk. To defend itself from this “aggression,” the mollusk secretes an organic substance composed of microscopic crystals of calcium carbonate, which deposits on the foreign body. Through the many layers of this mother-of-pearl substance, the pearl is created.
The natural pearls, which form spontaneously inside the oyster, are extremely rare, as pearl divers well knew, who were said to find on average one in every thousand oysters. At the beginning of the 20th century, some Japanese researchers, including the famous Mikimoto, discovered however that this formation process could be stimulated through human intervention, by directly introducing the foreign body, called the “nucleus,” into the oysters.
This is how cultured pearls were born, which have essentially the same characteristics as natural ones, but are produced in special oyster farms. Among the most famous are the Akoya, produced by the oyster of the same name cultivated mainly in Japan, China and Vietnam, which are known for their luminosity and sphericity and for their small size, from 2 to 10 millimeters. Australian ones, instead, are the largest in the world and have a diameter that can reach 20 millimeters.
Luca Daverio
The “4 S’s”
As with the “C’s” of diamonds, there are some parameters that serve to define the beauty and value of pearls. These are the 4 S’s, namely:
- Size, the size: the larger a pearl is, the more precious it is
- Shape, the form, which should be as spherical as possible
- Shade, the color, which is usually between white and pink
- Skin, the skin, that is the surface, which should be smooth.
However, it should be kept in mind that some irregularity does not compromise the value; on the contrary, it is an indication of a cultured pearl and not an imitation.
Luca Daverio
How to Care for Pearls
As is always said, they should be worn often to maintain their beauty and luster. However, it must be remembered that they are sensitive to cosmetics, perfumes and hair sprays: all these products can damage their surface, ruining it. Therefore, it is good practice to use makeup and perfumes first and then wear the pearls, avoiding wearing them when going to the hairdresser.
All acidic elements can damage them, including skin perspiration and seawater: the belief that bathing in the sea is good for pearls is absolutely to be debunked.
The pearl surface is delicate and scratches easily, so it is advisable to store jewelry with pearls in boxes or soft pouches, keeping them separate from other jewelry that could scratch them.
Necklace with Tahiti pearls and diamond beads by DAVERIO1933
Not just the Classic “Strand”
In addition to the “strand,” which can also be double or triple, pearls pair beautifully with precious metals and stones. The pearl ring, in white gold and with the addition of diamonds, is a classic engagement ring, to be given also on the wedding day: tradition holds that pearls are given to brides as a symbol of fertility.
Pearls are also the protagonists of earrings and necklaces, where they pair perfectly with rose gold and brilliants.
Fancy Color necklace made in 18-karat rose gold with pink and gold pearls, bead-cut diamonds and brilliants.
