Coral, the “Red Gold” of the Mediterranean
With its shades ranging from deep red to pink, orange, and white, coral immediately evokes summer and the sea, the environment from which it comes. Appreciated since the times of ancient Greece, it has always been attributed almost supernatural virtues: for the ancient Romans it was a talisman to wish newborns a happy life, for pagans an instrument to defend against the evil eye and envy, for Christians an ornament for sacred reliquaries, because its red color represented the blood of Christ.
It is still widely used in jewelry today, although it is not actually a stone. What exactly is coral and why is it so appreciated and precious?
What Coral Is
It is not a mineral, as we have said, but neither is it a plant, as was long believed due to its branched structure, which makes it resemble a plant. Corals belong to the animal kingdom: they are in fact small polyps that live in colonies and can create a common skeleton. Coral reefs are true ecosystems, composed of different types of corals, in which thousands of species of fish, mollusks, crustaceans, and other animal and plant species, such as algae, live.
As Assocoral, the association of coral producers, emphasizes, it is important to specify that the coral used in jewelry does not come from coral reefs, which are protected by very strict laws that prohibit removing corals from them. Furthermore, these species would not be suitable for processing anyway, because they are too fragile.
Where it is Found: from the Mediterranean to Japan
Only 5 species are used for jewelry making, one native to the Mediterranean and the other four from the Pacific Ocean, particularly from Japan.
Corallium Rubrum, with its typical red color, is found throughout the Mediterranean up to 200 meters deep and has the typical red color, with different shades depending on the area where it lives. One of the most prized varieties is that of Alghero, in Sardinia, so much so that the area is also called the Coral Riviera. The Sardinian city has been the capital of coral fishing since the early 1900s, which is regulated by the Sardinia Region and permitted only to a restricted number of authorized underwater fishermen. Torre del Greco, near Naples, has instead been the world capital of coral processing since 1700.
The other four species are called Japanese Coral and are fished in the Pacific Ocean, up to 1,500 meters deep.
Pendant with coral, rose gold, and diamonds, signed DAVERIO1933
All Shades from Red to White
The color of corals depends on the place where they are collected.
Red, as we have seen, is typical of Mediterranean species, which however can take on different shades: in the Sciacca area, in Sicily, orange shades are found that are caused by underwater volcanoes; elsewhere, very small quantities of pink coral have been found.
Among the Japanese species there are also red-colored ones, with different shades compared to the Mediterranean ones, while other varieties present orange tones. Pink coral and white coral always come from the Pacific Ocean.
How to Clean and Care for Coral Jewelry
For cleaning, simply use a soft cloth, without detergents or anything else.
The basic rules for jewelry care always apply: wear them only after creams, cosmetics, and perfumes have been absorbed and dried, and remove them before bathing or showering, to prevent bath foam or shampoo from damaging them. Even more important is not to wear coral at the sea or in the pool, as salt and chlorine could discolor it.
How to Recognize Real Coral
It is not uncommon to find fake coral jewelry: in most cases, so-called “bamboo coral” is used, a white marine plant that is then colored to imitate the real one. Other materials used are coral paste and roots, created with glass paste, plastic, or porcelain.
Often fake corals have a color that is too intense and artificial, but it is not always easy to recognize them. The best solution is always to consult an expert gemologist, who will be able to correctly evaluate the jewelry and discover any counterfeits.